Over-rim supply bidets are really only low-level wash basins and they are plumbed in exactly the same way. In most cases, this means taking branch pipes from the pipes which supply the other pieces of bathroom equipment. If the pipes are 22mm, use 22mm to 15mm reducing tees to make the branch. Before starting work turn the water off and drain the system as necessary.read more
Screw the bidet to the floor using brass screws special ones that take a covering cap which conceals the screw can be bought. Use washers and tighten gently to ensure the bidet is not cracked. If a basin mixer is used instead of separate taps, then both hot and cold supplies must come from the cold water cistern, or a divided-flow mixer must be used.
Special mixer taps (usually one-hole) are made for bidets where the outlet nozzle is adjustable. Many of these will be fitted with a pop-up waste.
The waste outlet from a bidet is made up in exactly the same way as for a wash basin – use a slotted waste sealed with plumbing mastic with a trap connected to it. In a two-pipe waste system, it can be fed into a hopper head rather than connected to the WCs soil stack.
For bidets with ascending sprays (which will include nearly all through-rim types), the plumbing requirements are more complicated. This type of bidet cannot be connected where the cold supply in the house is direct – and even in an indirect system, it should be fed by its own separate pipe from the cold water cistern which feeds nothing else, except perhaps a WC cistern. The hot supply for a bidet with an ascending spray can be provided in one of two ways: either from a separate hot water cylinder supplying only the bidet or as a new supply pipe from the hot water cylinder provided that this pipe is fitted with a check valve upstream of an additional vent pipe.
Another way of connecting an ascending-spray bidet is to take the connection from the cold water cistern and hot water cylinder in the normal way, but to take them to a new cistern or to a ‘tun-dish’ where they are mixed before going to the bidet.
You should inform your local water supply undertaking before you install a bidet.
Fitting an outside tap
It is very useful to have a tap outside -to which a hosepipe can be connected or which can be used for filling watering cans. In order to provide the kind of pressure needed for a hosepipe, this tap will almost certainly have to be connected to the rising main which, under the new water by-laws, will mean fitting a double check valve in the branch pipe as well as a stopvaive – the check valve is fitted between the stopvaive and the tap. Installing an outside tap is another job where you must inform your local water supply undertaking.
The simplest method of connecting an outside tap is to fit a compression lee into the rising main (or into the branch serving the kitchen tap), to which the stopvaive and double check valve are then fitted, after which a pipe is taken through a hole drilled in the outside wall to the tap -using flexible plastic or hand-bendable copper pipe will be easiest. There are two ways of running the pipe: cither it can pass through the wall and down to the tap (so that the tap can be used to drain the pipe in the winter with the stopvaive closed) or it can pass through the wall and up to the tap, in which case a drainvalve should be fitted where the pipe turns upwards. It is a good idea to position the tap over a gully, and it should be high enough off the ground for buckets and watering cans to be fitted underneath.